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From: Biniam Tekle (biniamt@dehai.org)
Date: Mon Oct 25 2010 - 09:20:23 EDT
http://arabnews.com/lifestyle/food_health/article165632.ece
The art of Eritrean coffee
By IBRAHIM NAFFEE, LIFE.STYLE@ARABNEWS.COM
Published: Oct 20, 2010 18:14 Updated: Oct 20, 2010 18:14
When dawn breaks, Hajah Fatimah begins preparing Eritrean coffee, the
aroma of which fills her home, signaling her family and neighbors that
it’s time to come into the dining room.
For Eritreans, drinking coffee together is a social rite. All of those
assembled exchange pleasantries, tell jokes, and discuss family
matters and any other topics of interest.
In fact, a unique feature of Eritrean coffee is that one is never able
to drink it alone. Its strong aroma has an enchanting power that draws
people together, especially when it’s cold.
People usually drink four to five cups of coffee in one sitting. The
more appropriate time to drink the beverage is during the morning;
guests are usually served coffee at any time of the day.
Eritrean coffee gets its exotic flavor mainly from olibanum also
popularly known as frankincense. Served alongside coffee are pastries
and popcorn. The coffee is also served in special serving cups.
“Al-Harari” and “Al-Luqmati” are the best varieties of Eritrean
coffee.
Eritreans have been drinking coffee for centuries, and say they were
the first to identify the potentials of the coffee plant and the first
to grind coffee beans to enhance the taste.
Their method of brewing coffee has also existed for centuries. The
brew is prepared in a special stove, known as a “Kanun” or “Farnello.”
Before grinding, the beans are roasted in a coal stove and then poured
into a special pot made of clay called a “Jabanah,” which is so
indispensable to Eritrean coffee that people call them Siamese twins.
Eritreans believe that it is the “Jabanah” that makes the Eritrean
coffee different from Arabian and Turkish coffee.
A pan called “Qallayah” is also a must in making Eritrean coffee. The
pan is used for roasting the beans before grinding. A wooden pot is
also used in preparing the beans. The kettle that boils the coffee is
called “Al-Sharqarq.” All of the utensils are made of special clay
mined from the Waqar region in the east of the Sudan. The beans are,
however, pounded in an anvil called “Fandak” and a pestle, which are
made of iron.
Feeling nostalgic and reminiscing their home country, Eritreans who
live abroad often hold coffee drinking sessions, which serve to
strengthen their cultural and national bonds. Old people use the
coffee sipping sessions to refresh memories of yesteryear. It is not
an exaggeration to say that the coffee culture keeps Eritreans united
despite their communal and cultural diversities.
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