From: Biniam Tekle (biniamt@dehai.org)
Date: Fri Dec 18 2009 - 17:51:29 EST
Asmara Restaurant in Cambridge - Gluten Free Eritrean Food
December 17, 5:21 PM Melanie Zoltan
We didn't know when we chose Asmara Restaurant, an Eritrean place that has
been in business since 1986 in Cambridge, that we'd end the meal with
yellow-stained fingernails.
Eritrea, a nation annexed by Ethiopia and returned to independence in 1993,
has an amazing culinary tradition, with communal eating at the heart of its
cuisine. When you walk into Asmara Restaurant you notice the interesting
tables, which are made of wicker and look like a giant, woven bowl perched
on a wide wicker stool. Each table has chairs and small benches next to the
chairs, upon which the server places drinks and napkins.
The menu is easy to navigate and the server knowledgeable about gluten
issues; when told we needed a gluten-free meal she assured us she would
bring everything gluten free. The table placard included a note about teff,
the high-protein, gluten-free grain used in Eritrean cooking. Teff is
similar to millet and is the smallest grain in the world. Eritrean cooking
uses teff to make injera, a spongy, pancake-like flatbread that forms the
basis for Eritrean meals.
We ordered two entrees from the menu, the boneless chicken ($15.95) and the
Hamli - Tikil Gomen, a mixture of cabbage, potatoes, and carrots in a mild
yellow sauce($12.75). We also ordered a papaya drink, which was fresh papaya
and ice, a blended drink that was less sweet than mango and refreshing. The
drink came with an extremely long straw, which puzzled us until the food
arrived.
First we were given hot towels with which to wash our hands. Then the server
delivered an enormous plate, with four huge injera overlapping each other
(imagine a four-leaf clover). In the middle was a salad with field greens
and cheese, drizzled with dressing, and our entrees on either side in metal
bowls. The server poured the entrees onto the injera and left us.
We were modest, at first, tearing off pieces of the pancake and using it
like a glove, scooping up food and eating that way. After a while, the
modestly wore off and we picked up food with our fingers, the yellow spices
turning the nails yellow. The injera is slightly fermented and spongy, with
a delicious spice. The vegetables and meats were cooked perfectly. The long
straw? Ah, we figured it out - no need to pick up the glass with our
food-covered hands!
What appeared to be a moderate amount of food was too much for us, in the
end. With great portion sizes, delicious flavor, and a unique presentation,
Asmara is worth adding to anyone's list of establishments, with an added
bonus for gluten-free diners. Be sure to call ahead and speak to a manager
about your gluten issues, and again ask when you order that your meal be
made gluten free.
Asmara Restaurant
739 Massachusetts Avenue
Cambridge, Ma 02139
Tel: (617) 864-7447
Fax: (617) 864-7443
Catering/Takeout: (617) 864-7447
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