A UN armoured mine-resistant vehicle stands sentinel on the muddy road leading to Kadhian village south of the Kiir River. It’s a stark reminder of the perpetual danger lurking in this disputed oil-rich region spanning the border of Sudan and South Sudan.
A procession of young men, AK-47s slung over their shoulders, walk into the village between the UN vehicle and a “this is a demilitarised zone” warning sign. There are just a few people around. Among them, sitting near a tea shop, is payam chief Khom Dhalic, a representative of seven villages in the area, who describes life in “the box”, as the region is known locally.
![The remnants of a Médecins Sans Frontières health post destroyed in fighting, in Wunpeth village, Abyei.](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/25e0a131e18d3f8315821ade9951460ee33b8769/0_0_2000_1333/master/2000.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none)
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The remnants of an MSF health post destroyed in fighting, in Wunpeth village, Abyei
“The UN station their tanks here but when the attacks commence, they retreat. Lives have been lost, including women and children, and we endure sleepless nights drenched in fear. Many families have sought refuge far from here. This land, our ancestral home, lies fallow, it is too dangerous to farm. We survive on the leaves of the trees,” says Dhalic.
![A camp for people displaced by fighting. Nyanyath Achueng says: ‘There have been 25 families here since our village was attacked a few months ago. Many were killed, including our chief. Some have died since from sickness. Now we shelter by the gates of the Unisfa compound for protection. The remains of our village are just 300 meters away but we daren’t stay there.’](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/0510db437e87e7def656b9418302d95ec636fbc9/0_0_2000_1333/master/2000.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none)
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Families live in makeshift shelters at a camp for those displaced by fighting
![Hama Abaker and her daughter, Ashura Adem. Hama says: ‘Our village was attacked in the night, there was shooting everywhere. Soldiers came into our hose shooting. They killed my husband along with my daughter and my son. They were shot dead in front of us. We survived somehow. This happened in our village just outside Nyala.](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/794b32f90ad160ed810c07127aaad1c10245ccf0/0_0_2000_1333/master/2000.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none)
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Hama Abaker and her daughter, Ashura Adem
The Abyei region, rich in oilfields and lush pastures, has long been disputed. Its contentious status, exacerbated since South Sudan’s independence in 2011, has brought conflict and insecurity. The once-promised referendum in Abyei to decide if it would remain a part of Sudan, or restored to South Sudan, first included in the peace agreement that ended Sudan’s civil war in 2005, remains a distant dream, delayed by disputes over residency qualifications, leaving the region in perpetual limbo.
A UN-backed interim security force for Abyei (Unisfa) was deployed in 2011 and sought to maintain order until a referendum could be held, but political entanglements have stymied progress.
With attention focused on the outbreak of war in Sudan this year, Abyei continues to be overlooked. But as the Unisfa mandate nears renewal on 15 November at the UN security council, the hope persists that the international community will recognise Abyei’s plight and work toward a resolution.
![A makeshift school at the Bok Chop IDP camp. The children lack pencils, blackboards and books and even enough mats to sit on the floor.](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/15a5a920f51c0ca86d3b03bdf34f175a056ea62c/0_0_2000_1333/master/2000.jpg?width=465&dpr=1&s=none)
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Children learn English at a makeshift school at the Bok Chop IDP camp
A decade of political gridlock has ensnared Abyei in a precarious situation, where the interests of South Sudan’s president, Salva Kiir, and Sudan’s Abdel Fattah al-Burhan, align in maintaining the status quo. “For Kiir, any move risks alienating the Sudanese army, potentially sparking support for militia armies. Meanwhile, Burhan views Abyei as a means to control the Misseriya, Arab pastoralists who traverse the region annually,” says the writer and researcher Joshua Craze. “That’s important because the Misseriya are being recruited by the Rapid Support Forces – the main militia fighting against Burhan in the north.”
![A family prepares food for the evening meal.](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/93bb183281b9675a1e58406d30466208ca4d3ae4/0_0_2000_1333/master/2000.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none)
![Leaves gathered from the bush are cooked. People here say they have no food and are going hungry on a regular basis.](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/b7a0695b09b21c7196010077e2ad168a045a5687/632_0_1066_1333/master/1066.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none)
![Mary can sell one of these bundles of firewood for 200 South Sudanese pounds (about 20p). She can carry three bundles at a time, and she walks for more than an hour each way to do so.](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/d5c192c21efd55b3eaed546b8aca0fdbe370685b/396_0_1067_1334/master/1067.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none)
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A family scrape together food for an evening meal (top); cooking leaves to eat; Mary sells firewood for about 200 South Sudanese pounds a bundle, and walks for more than an hour each way to do so
Amid this turmoil, thousands grapple with displacement, intensified by historical conflicts, the mounting climate crisis, economic hardships and limited access to essential healthcare.